Underpainting is having a revival, but why is TikTok suddenly so obsessed with the hack?

Depending on whether you’re a self-confessed MUA or a beginner on your makeup journey, you may or may not already be familiar with underpainting. The technique is simple; you apply concealer, contour, blush, and highlighter (in excess if you want a more dramatic effect) and then, the foundation goes on as the very last step. Of course, this goes against all the makeup rules that we’ve been taught, but as we all know, when it comes to beauty, There.Are.No.Rules. 

Opeyemi Adeyemo founder of OPV Beauty tells GLAMOUR that this technique has been used and mastered by makeup artists for years to create a softly sculpted look without the hassle of perfect application techniques but recently, it's been having a revival. Opeyemi suggests exaggerating contours, sculpting and blushing: “Bold stripes of rouge and cheekbone-sculpting contour should be swiped on before blending out any harsh lines with a top coat of foundation". Simple as pie.

Underpainting might look like the ultimate no-makeup makeup look, however, you will still require a full kit for the best results. “Underpainting requires a lot of the same tools you already have in your makeup stash. Since the contrasting colours must be applied directly to the skin first, it's important to be well-prepped and hydrated to avoid patchiness,” says Opeyemi. 

She recommends starting with a hydrating moisturiser (try E.L.F. Cosmetics Holy Hydration! Face Cream, £12, Beauty Bay) to enhance that dewy finish after layering. After prep, you're going to use products for contour, highlight: "I recommend using products with more creamy textures for underpainting as they're easier to blend and will create a second-skin-like finish, like OPV Beauty Cream Contour Palettes, £27, Cult Beauty” she adds. As for highlight and blush,  try Fenty Beauty Liquid Killawatt Highlighter, £24, Harvey Nichols and Saie Dewy Blush, £20, Cult Beauty. 

While the products are undoubtedly important, so are the tools for brushes (try Morphe Face The Beat 5 Piece Brush Collection and Bag, £27, Look Fantastic) and sponges (try Beautyblender Beam Shapeshift, £17.50, Cult Beauty) the general rule of thumb is to match their size and shape to suit the area you’re blending. “For example a smaller brush for more precise contouring, or a medium-size brush for blush. Always ensure that the head of the brush is smaller than the area you're working on".

What does each step of underpainting look like?

There isn't a set guide on the order you should use products as long as the foundation is the last one. Although even that rule is flexible as you may well want to top up product here or there. Opeyemi advises: “I recommend applying the contour first, then blush, then highlighter. As for application, you can use a range of motions including patting, blending, or buffing with fingers. Once you have your contour, highlight, and blush laid down, it's time for foundation. You don't want the foundation to be too heavy as you want the underpainting to come through, so add foundation little by little to the places you need it for extra coverage. Apply any extra highlight or powder you need on top and done." 

For a little extra razzle-dazzle, you can also enhance your already existing freckles with a freckle pen (try Relove by Revolution Freckle Baby Brown, £3, Revolution), or create new ones before you apply a light layer of foundation on top.

Here are some products you should consider on your journey to master underpainting. May you always be free to live your best no makeup makeup life.

For more from Glamour UK Beauty & Entertainment Assistant Shei Mamona, follow her on Instagram @sheimamona